Red Sparklings - Mostly Underrated !

A lot of people are under the impression that red sparkling wine is a lightweight trifle in Italy and Portugal, sources of sweet fizzy red wines that peaked in popularity in the United States in the 1980s before their bubbles burst as American drinkers got all grown-up. They would leave it to Australia to take sparkling red wine seriously. I just tasted the best Australian sparkling red wine and I got to tell you, that it was astonishing to somebody that expected grape soda pop. First of all, they're dry and I mean real dry. They are not frothy lightweights. They have the character of the varietal from which they're made -- most often Shiraz -- and also the terroir where they're grown. They can be earthy, rich and complex, with long finishes, yet the bubbles make them more food-friendly than a still wine made from the same grapes. Still this is a whole category of fun and delicious wines of which most people are completely unaware. If you get the chance, check them out. Here are my personal top picks. One from California and one from Australia.

1998 Geyser Peak Winery Sonoma County Sparkling Shiraz ($30) The best sparkling red made in California. Aromas of red plum, bacon and yeast. Flavors of red and black plum and black currant with a touch of apricot. Finish lengthens and flavor deepens after it's open an hour. Good level of effervescence.

2001 Craneford Barossa Valley Sparkling Shiraz Petit Verdot ($30) A huge wine on nose and palate. Jammy blackberry, earth and forest floor aromas and flavors, with some mint on midpalate. If this were still, it would be too big; effervescence makes it more food-friendly.