The New Old - Nose To Tail Eating !

There is a new movement in the food world that evolves around a very old concept; cooking and eating the whole beast. Instead of just serving up the top cuts, like the loins, the chops and the tenderloins, these new kids on the block are going back to the ways it used to be on the farms. The butcher came out and a pig was selected and butchered on the spot and within the next few days all parts of that pig (nose to tail) was artfully turned into great food. Some meat and inerts were served fresh, some of the parts were cured, smoked, pickled, salted or turned into sausages. In the process we rediscover that many of the parts that used to end up in the gutter can actually be turned into some of the best plates you'll ever have. One of the pioneer in this field is my Gourmet Brother Fergus Henderson that together with Trevor Gulliver opened ST. JOHN in London in 1994. Situated in a former smokehouse, around the corner from London's Smithfield Market they have developed one of the most unique eateries in London. You will go through a special experience, eating the most remarkable cuts that you wont find anywhere else. The food is phenomenal and the whole atmosphere between the place itself and the food is almost a culinary catharsis in a wonderful way. When in London - a must try!
26 St John Street, London
+44 (0) 20 7251 0848

Most people believe that the best Speck, Bacon and Pancetta actually comes from the pig's belly. Whilst it is true that most of these products are made from pork belly, one of the best bacon type cut is called Guanciale (gwan-CHA-leh) - that actually comes from the pork jowl or, to put it more delicately, pig cheek. Guanciale is always cured and never smoked. It is an amazingly good tasting bacon, that will turn your spaghetti carbonara into a true sensation. Try Guanciale cold cut style or pan seared with a good bread, or add some of it cubed and seared to your scrambled eggs in the morning and you wont want to go back to that other stuff. Guanciale is hard to find. Call my Gourmet Brother Marc Buzzio of New York's Salumeria Biellese and he will ship it to you!
Salumeria Biellese
212-736-7376

Maybe you wish to get in on this Nose To Tail cooking and try something that you never done before. How about some slow roasted pork belly Fergus Henderson style. It is a simple recipe and a simple process with a great result.

4 lb piece pork belly
1/3 cup whiskey
2 medium onions cut in 1/2-inch-thick rings
4 garlic cloves, finely chopped
2/3 cup loosely packed fresh sage leaves
1 cup chicken broth
2/3 cup cider (or beer)
2 teaspoons salt
8 whole cloves
1/8 teaspoon ground allspice
1/8 teaspoon ground cinnamon
5 tablespoons packed light brown sugar
1 tablespoon red-wine vinegar

Remove the skin from the pork belly. In a baking dish marinate the pork belly in the whiskey for at least 4 hours up to one day. Occasionally turning the pork belly over, keep it covered and chilled.
Put oven rack in lower third of oven and preheat oven to 300°F.
Spread onion rings in an even layer in a large ovenproof roasting pan and sprinkle with garlic and half of sage leaves. Pour in the chicken broth and arrange pork belly, fat-side up, on onions (discard marinade). Pour cider or beer over the pork belly. Finely chop remaining sage leaves and mix with salt, cloves, allspice, and cinnamon in a small cup. Sprinkle pork belly with the mixture.
Cover tightly with foil and roast, basting occasionally, until pork is very tender, about 3 hours.
Remove foil from pork and sprinkle brown sugar over pork. Increase oven temperature to 400°F and roast pork until glazed and golden, about 20 minutes more. Transfer pork to cleaned cutting board, reserving onions in pan (discard cloves), and let stand 20 minutes before serving.
Transfer onions with a slotted spoon to a serving dish and keep warm, covered. Add vinegar to liquid in roasting pan and boil on stove top until reduced by half, about 5 minutes. Pour reduced pan juices into a measuring cup and skim off fat. Cut pork belly lengthwise into 3/4-inch-thick slices, then halve each slice crosswise. Serve with onions and pan juices.